Caucasus Experience Georgia
Travel Stories
Impressive white mountain peaks, verdant valleys, vast wine regions and authentic old-fashioned villages. Georgia has it all. We went in search of the country’s Wild Roots and found it in the Greater Caucasus: a mountain range filled with the highest peaks in Europe. According to the locals the most beautiful place on earth, something you must have been once in a lifetime. And we agree. It is wild, unspoiled and unparalleled beauty!
For those who did not already know; the highest mountains in Europe are not in the Alps, but on the border of Russia and Georgia. The Elbrus, Dychtaoe, Shkhara and Kazbek are the really big boys of our continent at over 5,000 meters. We did not go that far during the multi-day trek through the Egrisi Mountains in Samegrelo Province. There, at an altitude of 2,500 meters are the Tobavarchkhili, or “silver lakes. This name refers to the beauty of the surroundings reflected flawlessly in the lakes. Due to its remote location, a visit is not for the average traveler and the only way to get there is on foot. The trek leads through forests, across alpine meadows, past breathtaking waterfalls, lakes and over snow-covered passes at 3,000 meters altitude. We went completely Caucasus-style accompanied by shepherds and horses packed with tents and food for seven days.
After days of walking without meeting a single human being, we arrive at that promising spot. And Silver Lake lives up to its name; perfectly reflective water merges into a razor-sharp view of snow-capped peaks, including the Elbrus. At this idyllic spot we make camp for the night. The next day, one of the horse men takes us to a remote makeshift shelter. There live two farmers who spend summers herding their cattle in the upper area by the river. With the necessary help of our local guide, we tell each other back and forth about all manner of life matters. And of course we can’t leave before dinner, so we get a demonstration of Elarji cooking (local cheese dish).
After a week on the road in the Greater Caucasus, our adventure is not finished. A trip Georgia is not complete without a ride in the Kamaz. The way to go in the Caucasus.
The Caucasus tasted like more. So we added the option of a five-day extension in the mountainous province of Svaneti: a hike from traditional guesthouse to guesthouse. So sleep with Georgian families in the mountain villages and get a taste of life as a Caucasian. With light packs, we hike about 6 to 9 hours per day culminating in a fantastic route over a ridge with views of glaciers and impressive peaks located in Russia.
We are also introduced to Georgia’s ancient culture and, inevitably, an inseparable part of it: toasting. “Gaumarjos!” literally translated means “wishing you long life, health, friendship and hospitality. Georgians are very hospitable, but also quite black and white. You are either friend or foe; there is no in between. After all, they have fought hard to maintain their own identity. It is a country that still visibly bears the scars of its troubled history and troubled relationship with neighboring Russia. For thousands of years, the Caucasus has been the scene of struggle and domination by other peoples. Georgia has been held over the centuries by Romans, Greeks, Persians, Huns, Mongols, Arabs and Russians.
So as far as we are concerned, Gaumarjos is mostly a toast to the land of unparalleled nature, hospitality and whimsy! Once again this summer we will be touring Georgia! We will take you into the wilderness, far away from civilization. Because being outside, traveling and adventuring challenges you, keeps you weather-broken and fresh – both physically and mentally.
